![]() ![]() it's easy to go to remove all the ugly chrome though just by pressing tab just like in Photoshop. Aesthetically FastRawViewer (a cross-platform app) is not the prettiest app in Mac history. If you are a photographer, FastRawViewer is the best $15 (or $20) you will ever spend on software.Īs other users have pointed out, FastRawViewer is kept up to date. There's no faster workflow for dealing with an event and getting to high quality jpegs from original RAW. Then I take the keepers put them in another folder and process them in DxO Photo Lab or Iridient Developer. I use FastRawViewer to offload files from SD and CompactFlash Media, to throw away dud photos and rate the rest. Embedded previews or accompanying jpegs work great and even faster. You don't have to You also don't have to use RAW if you have a high resolution camera like the Nikon D850, Sony A7R II or A7R III or the Canon 5DS R. It doesn’t reflect well on Microsoft that it took them until 2019 to try to address RAW files, and when they finally did, they decided to be lazy and rely on libraw’s clean-room reverse engineering efforts, instead of signing NDAs with the camera makers and implementing the actual written specs.Īs much as I admire the efforts of the libraw authors and the determination to keep things open source, their support sometimes lag the latest state of art by quite a bit-for example, the published version of libraw as of today still does not support Canon CR3, which is used in EOS M50, R and RP.Fastest gun in the West. (Their closed-source FastRAWViewer does have preliminary CR3 support, so I assume libraw will gain the support eventually.) Microsoft’s RAW support will therefore remain incomplete indefinitely. That would be an understandable sacrifice if Windows 10 itself was open source, but it’s not. It’s just Microsoft being too cheap to pay for their own RAW parser, like (for example) Apple does.This post is of interest to people who use cameras and process images. I originally wrote it for the Canberra Photographic Society. There is of course no ultimate workflow for processing RAW files. ![]() The first part deals with why you might want to assess images using FastRawViewer (the only way to see an accurate picture of a RAW file) and why you might want to consider bracketing files.However, there may be some ideas or information that you can adapt to your own unique processing style. The second part shows a way to quickly process images in Lightroom using Autotone as a starting point.The third part is a somewhat detailed survey of alternatives, including Fuji-specific issues, plug-ins, other RAW processors, Capture One and Luminosity masking.There is something for everyone and it covers quite a lot of ground so some may prefer to come back multiple times for different sections. The most important thing in Photography is to use your own vision to produce an image the way you visualise it, not what the camera or computer decides for you, or what fashions dictate. Post-processing is a very important part of that. This is a stitched panorama with very little other processing. All images benefit from some processing, a few require very little. RAW files offer potentially greater quality for both tonality and colour than JPEGs though they do require processing. A JPEG file is a subset of a RAW file with limited capacity to make further changes. Some people choose to shoot JPEG so they don’t have to process the image but that only works well if your subject has a limited tonal range and you expose accurately.įor any exposure, it is better to “expose to the right”. This means that the histogram for an image in your camera should be as far as possible to the right side without there being a white line shooting up the border which indicates overexposure. Exposing to the right is important because there is much more information in highlight areas with detail than in shadow areas.Ī histogram with a solid white line to the right, indicating overexposure There are partial exceptions to this where bright lights are part of your image such as concert lights, streetlights, the sun or specular highlights. Your camera shows a histogram for a JPEG file, not a histogram for a RAW file. (Well, unless you have the rare and expensive Leica Monochrom). This makes exposing to the right straightforward if you are shooting JPEG but more mysterious if you are shooting RAW. Usually for RAW you will have about two-thirds of a stop extra highlight room from what the histogram shows (and shadow room) but that varies for different cameras, exposure situations and probably lenses. Your camera “blinkies” are also based on the JPEG histogram.
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